Canal wides, Bays and Basins
A typical scene on a
deep, wide canal.
Appearances can be
deceptive - such barren looking
waters can hold surprisingly good stocks of
fish.
When is a canal not a canal?
Answer when it's a ship canal. Nearly all canals were built during the Industrial Revolution for barges and long boats to carry goods from one major industrial area to another. Most are 10-13m (11-14yd) wide and 1-1.5m (3-5ft) deep down the middle but not all.
Ship canals can be anything from 25-40m (27-44yd) wide, and 3-6m (10-20ft) deep down the centre. They were built to carry goods from coastal docks inland, light coasters being the main traffic.
The distinction between 'ordinary' canals and ship canals isn't always clear cut. There are many canals the length and breadth of Britain that fit somewhere in between. Here, however, we are concerned with any canal that is deeper than the usual 1-1.5m (3-5ft), and wider than the standard 10-13m (11-14yd).
It's a sad fact that some of these waters are too badly polluted to support fish. On the bright side, some of the polluted ones are being cleaned up and restocked, while there are plenty of others that are established, healthy fisheries.
Answer when it's a ship canal. Nearly all canals were built during the Industrial Revolution for barges and long boats to carry goods from one major industrial area to another. Most are 10-13m (11-14yd) wide and 1-1.5m (3-5ft) deep down the middle but not all.
Ship canals can be anything from 25-40m (27-44yd) wide, and 3-6m (10-20ft) deep down the centre. They were built to carry goods from coastal docks inland, light coasters being the main traffic.
The distinction between 'ordinary' canals and ship canals isn't always clear cut. There are many canals the length and breadth of Britain that fit somewhere in between. Here, however, we are concerned with any canal that is deeper than the usual 1-1.5m (3-5ft), and wider than the standard 10-13m (11-14yd).
It's a sad fact that some of these waters are too badly polluted to support fish. On the bright side, some of the polluted ones are being cleaned up and restocked, while there are plenty of others that are established, healthy fisheries.
Canal groundwork
It's essential to do a little preparatory groundwork before you wet a line. The first thing you need to know is what the main species in the canal are. Most deep, wide canals have good heads of roach, but some are also noted for chub, or bream, or both.
The next thing you need to know is where the best stretches are. Read match reports, sound out tackle dealers and talk to local anglers, and you soon find out where's best to fish. Some might see this as looking for a short cut to success, but when your fishing time is at a premium you don't want to waste it struggling in a bad area.
At the waterside, if you see a row of anglers all bagging up, then it's obviously a good area. If you see a line of people fishing but not catching, it might be a good area on an off day. But be warned, if the anglers in question are fishing near access points it might be that they just couldn't be bothered to walk any further!
If there's no-one fishing, signs to look for are well-worn swims and, regrettably but inevitably, litter. Again, however, near access points these things don't necessarily indicate that the fishing is particularly good in that area.
It's essential to do a little preparatory groundwork before you wet a line. The first thing you need to know is what the main species in the canal are. Most deep, wide canals have good heads of roach, but some are also noted for chub, or bream, or both.
The next thing you need to know is where the best stretches are. Read match reports, sound out tackle dealers and talk to local anglers, and you soon find out where's best to fish. Some might see this as looking for a short cut to success, but when your fishing time is at a premium you don't want to waste it struggling in a bad area.
At the waterside, if you see a row of anglers all bagging up, then it's obviously a good area. If you see a line of people fishing but not catching, it might be a good area on an off day. But be warned, if the anglers in question are fishing near access points it might be that they just couldn't be bothered to walk any further!
If there's no-one fishing, signs to look for are well-worn swims and, regrettably but inevitably, litter. Again, however, near access points these things don't necessarily indicate that the fishing is particularly good in that area.
Pinning down the fish
Having found a good stretch of canal, how do you pick a good peg? It all depends on the species of fish you're after.
Roach can be caught from most pegs, though if you are lucky enough to find one with near-bank weed cover this is obviously best. In summer they are mostly found up the sides of the shelves. In winter they tend to drop down to the deeper, warmer water at the bottom of the shelves.
Chub invariably live in the relatively shallow water right on top of the far-bank shelf
Here they patrol for food falling from overhanging foliage, as far away from towpath and boat traffic disturbance as they can get.
Picking a chub peg is not difficult. Any swim with a far bank feature, whether it be an overhanging tree or bush, a weed bed, a jetty or a moored boat, is likely to harbour a few chub.
Bream are more often than not found in the deepest water at the bottom of the shelves, especially the far-bank shelf. At dawn and dusk you might be lucky enough to spot them rolling, otherwise you just have to take pot luck with swim selection.
As long as you know you are in the right area, you always have a chance of intercepting a patrolling shoal of slabs.
Tactics from the towpath
Deep, wide canals are no different from other canals in that careful feeding and fine tackle are needed to catch fish.
Roach are, without doubt, the most prolific species in these canals and can be caught on most methods. Two techniques dominate, however: the pole and the straight lead.
Whichever you use, fine tackle is an absolute must: 12oz-llb (0.34-0.45kg) hook lengths and size 20-24 fine-wire hooks.
In summer the pole is best by far. Loose feed maggot if the roach average 3oz (85g) or more. If the fish are of a somewhat smaller stamp, feeding little and often with light ground bait and pinkies or squatts can be unbeatable. A pole of between 7 -11m (23-36ft) is ideal.
By accurate plumbing, try and find a flattish ledge down the near-side shelf.
Having found your fiat spot, loose feed or ground bait sparingly, building the swim slowly. Once the fish respond you can increase accordingly.
Loose feeding often brings roach up off the bottom, especially in summer.
Therefore a light float taking around 0.5g, with no.10 shot spread down the last 1m (3ft) offline, is generally the best choice.
As the temperature drops, so the roach move to the deeper water. The straight lead now takes over. By concentrating on the bottom of the shelves, you can account for some big fish, some of them over 1lb (0.45kg). Light but regular feeding is crucial and patience is now the name of the game - you can't rush roach. You might have to wait up to two hours for your first bite, but catch that first fish and you're on your way.
Chub can be caught in excess of 3lb (1.4kg) from many deep, wide canals. Two methods can score the waggler and the block-end feeder. The latter is by far the simpler option, as wind and water movement often make far bank float presentation and feeding difficult. The best bait is nearly always bronze maggots.
Start with a medium sized feeder to lay an initial carpet of feed, then switch to a small feeder after two or three casts, sit back, and wait. It often pays to fish with a longish tail, especially if the water is on the clear side, as the chub can be wary of the feeder. A 1½lb (0.68kg) hook length is essential.
Chub can bite ferociously and unless you're careful can quite easily snap lighter hook lengths. Also, when hooked they run along the far shelf looking for snags, so you need the power to bully them away.
If conditions are perfect, with no wind and no surface tow, you can try the waggler.
However, loose-feeding can be nigh on impossible. It's here that 'Sticky Mag' comes into its own. This powder enables you to form small balls of maggots and catapult them the required distance. (Similar results can be obtained with malted drink powders such as Horlicks.)
Once again, the far ledge is the point of attack, and by fishing a few inches over depth, with light shotting down the line, you can often catch on the drop as well as on the bottom.
Bream respond well to a light, open-end ground bait feeder cast to the bottom of the far ledge. Use a 1-1½ lb (0.45-0.68kg) hook length, a size 20 or 22 hook and small baits like single or double maggot or caster. If fish over 1½ lb (0. 68kg) are expected, red worms can also be a good bait.
When fishing for bream you have to put in some initial feed, usually four or five tangerine-sized balls of ground bait packed with tasty morsels such as squatts, casters and maybe a few chopped worms. Place the feed accurately in the required spot, and eventually the bream should move in.
Occasionally, where the bottom of the nearside ledge is close enough to the towpath, you can catch bream on the long pole. Once again an initial feed is required. Fish a few inches over depth with a 1-1.5g Olivette rig.
Deep, wide canals are never easy waters, but they are a challenge to any angler and the rewards are there for the taking if you can master the challenge. Give them a go.
Deep, wide canals are no different from other canals in that careful feeding and fine tackle are needed to catch fish.
Roach are, without doubt, the most prolific species in these canals and can be caught on most methods. Two techniques dominate, however: the pole and the straight lead.
Whichever you use, fine tackle is an absolute must: 12oz-llb (0.34-0.45kg) hook lengths and size 20-24 fine-wire hooks.
In summer the pole is best by far. Loose feed maggot if the roach average 3oz (85g) or more. If the fish are of a somewhat smaller stamp, feeding little and often with light ground bait and pinkies or squatts can be unbeatable. A pole of between 7 -11m (23-36ft) is ideal.
By accurate plumbing, try and find a flattish ledge down the near-side shelf.
Having found your fiat spot, loose feed or ground bait sparingly, building the swim slowly. Once the fish respond you can increase accordingly.
Loose feeding often brings roach up off the bottom, especially in summer.
Therefore a light float taking around 0.5g, with no.10 shot spread down the last 1m (3ft) offline, is generally the best choice.
As the temperature drops, so the roach move to the deeper water. The straight lead now takes over. By concentrating on the bottom of the shelves, you can account for some big fish, some of them over 1lb (0.45kg). Light but regular feeding is crucial and patience is now the name of the game - you can't rush roach. You might have to wait up to two hours for your first bite, but catch that first fish and you're on your way.
Chub can be caught in excess of 3lb (1.4kg) from many deep, wide canals. Two methods can score the waggler and the block-end feeder. The latter is by far the simpler option, as wind and water movement often make far bank float presentation and feeding difficult. The best bait is nearly always bronze maggots.
Start with a medium sized feeder to lay an initial carpet of feed, then switch to a small feeder after two or three casts, sit back, and wait. It often pays to fish with a longish tail, especially if the water is on the clear side, as the chub can be wary of the feeder. A 1½lb (0.68kg) hook length is essential.
Chub can bite ferociously and unless you're careful can quite easily snap lighter hook lengths. Also, when hooked they run along the far shelf looking for snags, so you need the power to bully them away.
If conditions are perfect, with no wind and no surface tow, you can try the waggler.
However, loose-feeding can be nigh on impossible. It's here that 'Sticky Mag' comes into its own. This powder enables you to form small balls of maggots and catapult them the required distance. (Similar results can be obtained with malted drink powders such as Horlicks.)
Once again, the far ledge is the point of attack, and by fishing a few inches over depth, with light shotting down the line, you can often catch on the drop as well as on the bottom.
Bream respond well to a light, open-end ground bait feeder cast to the bottom of the far ledge. Use a 1-1½ lb (0.45-0.68kg) hook length, a size 20 or 22 hook and small baits like single or double maggot or caster. If fish over 1½ lb (0. 68kg) are expected, red worms can also be a good bait.
When fishing for bream you have to put in some initial feed, usually four or five tangerine-sized balls of ground bait packed with tasty morsels such as squatts, casters and maybe a few chopped worms. Place the feed accurately in the required spot, and eventually the bream should move in.
Occasionally, where the bottom of the nearside ledge is close enough to the towpath, you can catch bream on the long pole. Once again an initial feed is required. Fish a few inches over depth with a 1-1.5g Olivette rig.
Deep, wide canals are never easy waters, but they are a challenge to any angler and the rewards are there for the taking if you can master the challenge. Give them a go.
